Looking Coldest

We had packed rain gear (supposedly it rains all the time) and some colder weather clothes and coats (because we were advised to do so) for the cruise. For most of the stops we could get away with sweatshirts over a couple layers. It was colder on the boat out on the deck with the wind whipping as the boat steamed full speed ahead. Then a winter coat was appreciated.

We visited Skagway as our most northern port. The bus driver (on our way to the sled dog training camp and to the Yukon) was a transplant to Alaska. He was a glass blower by trade and took a job in Skagway at a glass art studio. Sadly the studio didn’t survive the pandemic so he was doing what he could to stay in Skagway. He told us not only about the area we were seeing out the windows and at the stops but also about life in Skagway.

It gets really really cold. And it snows a bunch. So that means that once winter sets in everyone just hunkers down and doesn’t move. They can’t go anywhere because the roads all close. During tourist season there are about 1700 people living in Skagway but when winter arrives the number drops to about 750 people… They have a name for the first snow, “terminal” snow, because that’s when all the businesses terminate their summer workers. He said that the only stores that stay open are the general store and the grocery. They don’t have a doctor or dentist and even have a law that makes it is illegal to give birth in Skagway. If you are pregnant you have to relocate to a bigger city for the last 2 months of your pregnancy! They do have a school but grades k-12 have a grand total of about 100 students. Most of the residential homes were very tiny compared to what I think of a family home. And made of cement block. They are insulated to the max and designed to minimize cost of heating (so few windows and the windows are small). Internet is not very reliable and mostly they depend on DVDs for entertainment! When we were stopped at an overlook that had a souvenir shop, he bought some potato chips – because they don’t have them in Skagway! I think it takes a special kind of individual to want to live in Skagway or in any of the really small, remote towns in rural Alaska!

The shops along the main street cater to tourists – a bazillion jewelry stores all selling the same stuff (most of it sourced from China) and some “art” shops selling paintings of the kind we have here – of a wolf howling at the moon etc. But I spotted one place that wasn’t taking itself too seriously. They were selling Alaskan Swimwear:

Thanks for reading all the way to the end! Hope the Furkini made it worthwhile!

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110 thoughts on “Looking Coldest

      1. Actually another example of what the wives did up there, they must stay inside because of the cold, so they formed a “knitting group”, mostly a reason to get together and visit with other “expats”. Some knitted scarfs other tried sweaters, and some socks. Shirley just wanted to make a statement~! (not brag~!)

        Reminds me of when I was in school; the vogue back then was for the girls to knit argyle socks for “their man” My girlfriend managed one and a half of a pair of socks in a whole semester, and our “love” did not survive the effort.

        It was funny to see those girls going campus with those funny little knitting needles with a piece of metal tying them together all knitting argyle socks. Times have changed, today they only carry around a cell phone playing games.
        Funny how times have changed~!

        This was also the times before stretch jeans so the girls bought a pair of Levis and put them on then sat in a tub of warm water and wore them until they dry shrunk to fit their forms.

        We once had a quiz on a test where we were supposed to say what clothes would look like at the turn into the 21st century. I said that everyone would be wearing clothes made out of plastic. Boy, how did I know~?

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        1. SAM I remember the skin tight jeans! I was not permitted to have jeans until I was in HS and only because I had to have them for a camping trip. I had a girlfriend who bought the jeans, sat in a bathtub of hot water and then let them shrink/dry to get that fit. She also got blue everything from her navel down! It was really funny to me but her mother was not amused – especially since he bathtub was also dyed blue! The plastic shoes are a thing I never saw coming – and they are generally awful because they make your feet sweat = stink!

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            1. Hehe! You are a bit older than I am… I do remember not being able to wear pants to school – a shirt or dress was required. Even on the coldest days! Recess was brutal and all the girls would huddle against the building to get away from the wind…

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              1. You are lucky in some places where I have been theiy had to wear a “uniform” because everyone must be equal and the same, maybe this is where America may get, if too much is said about equality, looks, instead of the individual.

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                  1. My luck was in my inquiring mind, I always lived as much like the natives as I could. I was not what you could call a tourist, first I tried to speak their language, not teach them to understand me, I ate their food and even lived among them when possible. I was very lucky to have picked an occupation that took me to many parts of the world, places that are no longer the same primitive way of life that they have today. This is why I try to pass it on to the people of today, but not all of them can phantom how it was.

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  1. I have two friends who are travel nurses up in Kotzebue, north of the arctic circle. It does take a special temperament to live up there. I knew when my friend said she was taking on the contract there, she would have issues. She’s so gregarious and on the go that being stuck in the same place for so long with no way out except by plane would be an issue. Her sister handles it much differently. It’s not an easy life at all during the winter.

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      1. You are correct and there is a lot of alcoholism, mostly with the wives in North Africa. The men have the outlet in their work. BUT like in some to those countries, a three hour lunch is also a problem, especially if it is a Latin country where good wine or brandy can be less than three dollars a bottle.

        Foreign work is not the place for an alcoholic or their family,, I have seen many, some in their graves, or having to send them home in a coffin. The down side of my type of work, a real put down and problem for such a person in charge, as I was, where I had to look after them. It is sad to seen a person destroying their selves.

        The north countries like Canada, they had laws that you can only order three glasses of beer at a time, and everybody does so. You have a ladies section and a men’s section in a bar, but only a short wall separates them, so men are allowed in the ladies section if they are invited,,, the problem is that short wall only separates at table height. One other thing is that a bar must have a place where a person can be put to “sleep it off”, the same is true in Europe, and there is a time off in the middle of the evening where everyone must go home..The last law in Canada is that all hard alcohol is controlled by the National Liquor store.

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        1. I don’t drink and have never been tempted to do so. But I know the allure for some is irresistible. It is very hard to police the actions of others especially when it comes to drinking. I’ve seen some women get so drunk that they’ve been a danger to themselves and others (especially at the pool when they sneak their alcohol in in the guise of a “Big Gulp” soda)… Even with the 3 drink rule someone determined to get blotto will find a way.

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          1. I have seen it as a sickness just as all other habitual habits are, like gambeling or sex can be.. my problem is that foreign work came to be a place where persons who were already on their last chance ended up. There were times that I had to take care of them like a very young father. I watched some people who were otherwise great people not being able to handle working is such a situation.. I would send them home if possible but had several die on me. And even those I sent home did not last very long.

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  2. The residential homes were tiny to conserve heat during winter, I would think. Large home take too much to maintain I am sure. The furkinis were funny to see. Why would anyone wear them? All their lakes and pools would be frozen anyway, me thinks!

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    1. Yes all the houses were very small and had only a few little windows all to conserve heat and make them easier to heat… There were some larger houses that I’m guessing were summer places for tourists. The furkini was a joke. A kind of novelty gag gift you might purchase if you had more money than sense!! We got a good laugh out of it and wanted to share!

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    1. I can, you did anything that might keep you from freezing, I did not need that, but I always had warm mukluks (SIC~?) made by the native Americans, a rawhide boot with the fir turned inside. The main problem with them is that they are made in the native way and the tanning is not very good, so they get wet and then would freeze to your feet.. Felt slip-overs were nice when you went inside a persons home. No real problem for me though, I also got over sized boots then I could wear them over the mukluks to keep the snow and wet out. I also never shaved (unless I was going south to see a lady friend) because that only opened your face to the wind to freeze. But your breath would freeze to your whiskers and you had to brush it off,, even the tears could freeze in your eyes if you did not protect them..

      I have seen livestock freeze, while standing up, horses were better off because they would knock the ice off their nose, but for some reason the cows would have ice on their nose and then stopped breathing while still standing up.. Sounds like tall tails, but I have: been there, and done that~! More interesting stories to tell about~!

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      1. I believe you about the cows – they are not the smartest of God’s creations though a bit better off than the turkey! My niece moved from Atlanta to New Mexico and then to Buffalo NY – she had to purchase a pair of goggles so that when she was shoveling snow her eyeballs didn’t freeze or her tears freeze on her cheeks… As for frozen tootsies, I think that danger would be the greatest! Glad you figured out a way to protect your feet!

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        1. I did not figure out the mukluks the native Americans showed me how. As to turkeys we both have seen their stupidity.. I have seen a turkey stand in a puddle with it’s head in the air churping because it was wet. At least the cows had the good sense to stand with the wind on their rear end, I blame the old cow farmer for some of those deaths because most of them had barns to put the cows in. It is sad to see several cows standing in deep snow but dead.

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          1. Yes. The farmer was definitely negligent! You would think that with the value of an animal like a cow that the farmer would want to protect his investment even if he felt no humane obligations!!!

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    1. Bonnie they had all he tourist stuff – overpriced pins and necklaces, pennants with the state of Alaska, pens and pencils with moose and bears on top, t-shirts and sweat shirts with the Alaska state flag or moose crossing… all priced outrageously (even the “sale” stuff)! I can’t imagine living there – it just wouldn’t be my cup of tea…

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      1. Oh, in Alaska there is so much native American things that are hand made often fossilized Mammut or walrus ivory beautifully carved, why would you buy that “Chinese stuff”~?

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  3. Those people live like in the ancient time in winter in Europe .
    At reading conscientiously your post , Val, I see those people don’ t hibernate in winter 😉 and the school remains actve including a highschool !
    I would be happy to see a photo of you wearing a winter coat on the board of the ship!! 🙂
    Love ❤
    Michel

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    1. I was surprised that school isn’t reversed (study in the summer and have the winter off) but they’ve been doing remote/internet learning for a long time – the pandemic wasn’t a big adjustment! I was much too cold to get a photo on the deck. Sparky tried and almost lost his phone!

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    1. Hehe! Skagway was my favorite stop… As for the “hoochie” wear, you nailed it! They were priced NOT to sell but I bet there are quite a few of them in the back of closets on several college campuses!

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      1. sorry if this is inappropriate as a comment here Muri , but I would like to invite your comment to a post I have just published. If you think it’s unethical I take it down. Thanks,

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        1. … or I could replace his image with a cartoon monk stock foto? In the meantime David B has kindly done a google search with the pic and did not get any results/was not able to identify him.

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        2. Hi Barbara, I do not make a judgement. What you write is your truth and your experience – I cannot say that it is right or wrong. Perhaps your asking indicates an uncertainty on your part. You must follow your own conscience. If everyone only wrote so that there was never offense taken we would live in a very bland world…

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    1. I don’t think someone with Seasonal Affective Disorder would last long there. I bet there are lots of knitters, or those who crochet, probably a fair number of embroidery, counted cross stitch and crewel work fanatics too!

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      1. I’ve traveled to Alaska 3 times, in summer and early break-up (spring). SADD is especially awful there, as the sun never rises as high as it does in the “lower 48,” even in mid-summer. The locals had developed multiple games” (social activities) to keep them from losing it in mid-winter — my favorite is a hide toss, like a trampoline, but hand held — the object is to toss people into the air from the surface, and see how high they go!

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        1. We were cruising with 2 ladies who were making their 5th time to Alaska… They really loved the area. But they neither one wanted to live there saying it was a “nice place to visit…” I’m not so sure I’d trust people to catch me, though I’m betting it is a very close knit community!

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          1. With 15-20 people holding a huge pelt, when they do the toss the people go straight up, and come back down to land on the middle of the pelt. Catching doesn’t seem to be a problem — the challenge is how high!

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  4. Living in a place like that would certainly require a sense of humour- thus the furkini. Skagway is on my radar for the next Alaska visit, as is the “mainland”-Kenai, Anchorage, Denali and Talkeetna.

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  5. Very interesting. I think I would be bundle up and never wear them. I struggle with being inside during the Kansas winters. I can only imagine in Alaska how closed in I would feel.

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                  1. I want him to cook at least one day a week . His mom is driving me nuts telling me I can’t charge him 300 a month for rent and food. He is s big inconvenience right now because he is a mess.

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                    1. So sad that he’s a mess. Perhaps standing on his own 2 feet is a new experience. Paying his way is necessary but his mom sounds like she coddles him and wants everyone else to do the same (just my impression from afar)…

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  6. I enjoyed this background information, Muri, and look forward to reading more about your trip. My sister and her husband are doing an Alaskan cruise in July. Would you mind sharing the company you used for the whale watching excursion?

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  7. you are so right living remotely takes a special kind of person, comfortable in their own skin and who can create their own entertainment! I loved living in the outback, the salt of the earth people and even their outrageous gossiping tickled my SOH … but aging makes one more conscious of having health facilities closer to hand. Those poor pregnant women isolated from their loved ones … reminds of the Broken Hill friend who had to have her babies in Adelaide.

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    1. I guess it makes sense in a way – no doctor, no hospital, and way to get to them if complications arise. Still it does seem sad to have to leave the familiar for 8 weeks and give birth among strangers… I can see that it takes a little more than just a desire to distance ones self from the hustle and bustle of the big cities.

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